DAY THIRTY
MUSSIDAN – PORT-SAINTE-FOY-ET-PONTCHAPT
Even in the heavenly desires
One does not attain joy
Hearers of the rightly awakened
Enjoy extinction of desire.
Dhammapada
At 6 in the morning, the honking of two cars, loud voices and the overloud beat of
music speakers of the cars woke me up. I had enjoyed my solitude of the last couple
of weeks so much that this noise was incredible disturbing…………
Again, I had to walk 33 km (20 miles) this day. I needed to make the distance to
arrive at Saint-Jean-Pied-de Port latest by July 19 so I could be back in Austria
for my husband’s birthday.
The Way was leading me through meadows and oak forests and later on to a totally
different environment – to vineyards stretching up to the horizon. By coming closer
to Spain, the churches also changed to show Spanish influences on their facades.
Long walks on asphalt streets caused my leg muscles to cramp and it was the first
time that I took the medicine Alive in order to be able to continue walking. My
doubts about the continuation of the Way grew stronger and stronger. At the same
time, I was thinking about the millions of people having walked this way over
centuries and they had to overcome bigger hassles than just a pain in the leg.
Sign of the Way with a marching pilgrim
Watch tower
View down the valley of the Dordogne River
The Dordogne River separated the two towns, Port-Sainte-Foye-et-Ponchapt and
Sainte-Foy-la-Grande. The refuge where I stayed overnight was in the first town.
It was a big house with 10 beds and I was the only pilgrim in this place. This was
a strange feeling. Like always, I signed my name into the Golden Book, the Book of
pilgrims.
Dordogne river and the town Sainte-Foy-la Grande
Medieval walkways in the town Saint-Foy
Pilgrim’s Book
– Text and photos contributed by Garyo –