SOLOMON ISLANDS, MAROVO LAGOON
Traveling between the islands is a challenge – like many other things on the Solomon Islands. When we wanted to buy tickets for our boat trip to Marovo Lagoon, the ticket office was closed. The person selling the ticket simply did not show up. Not showing up is normal. Lorenz told me that one of the hospitals in Honiara ran out of medicine because the person having the key for the pharmaceutical room was on vacation for over a month. Nobody else was allowed to enter the room. Often, doctors do not show up for work and patients do not come for follow-ups. Lorenz had to wait for a visa (he did not have a visa for several months) because the minister of immigration was on vacation and the visa needed his signature – this is island life. However, it is worth taking all these hassles – these islands are magical!
Our boat Anjeanette
The trip to Marovo Lagoon on the Anjeanette (an old Chinese boat) took 9 hours. We traveled overnight in first class – a room to sleep with about 15 people on the floor. The room was equipped with an air-conditioner, however it dropped water all night and in the morning, my blanket was soaking wet. But it was pure luxury compared to all the others. Second class was a bigger room in the belly of the boat, but with many more people. On third class, people had chairs to sit on the deck all night. Tickets in 4th class meant finding a place in the corridors, stairs and in between boxes. It felt like a refugee boat – but I am sure, that the conditions are much worse there.
First class cabin
We arrived at Driftwood Lodge on Gatukai Island after a half an hour boat ride and 10 minutes jungle walk and stayed in this lodge for five nights. It was pure paradise!
The harbor at Gantukai island
Entrance to Driftwood Lodge
We sit and stand under the huge entrance gate of the lodge, which is the jaw of a blue whale. Several years ago, the humongous animal was swept on shore. The lodge was built and is run by Matt, an Australian. He is a free diver who is able to stay 5 minutes under water without breathing and dives more than 60m deep. Watching him is watching an elegant fish swimming in the ocean. Adrienne, Ale, Lorenz and I carry the woven bags the crew gave us upon our departure.
Out of the vertebrae of the whale, one of the artists carved a face. The face looked like Humbaba to me, the protector of the huge Cedar forests in the Gilgamesh Epic – a warning against the ruthless logging industry.
Each of us had a very charming room in the lodge. My room was in the attic with a toilet and shower on the terrace. The view was spectacular!
Open air toilet
The crew of the Driftwood lodge was like a good functioning, traditional family. When we were snorkeling and diving, some crew members were catching fish with their harpoons. The women cooked the fish and served it with delicious vegetables and salads.
Dewy, an excellent diver, caught this fish with a harpoon
Kleme, preparing the fish on an outside grill
They first place they decided to make fire was a place where a turtle laid and buried her eggs, so they left it untouched.
Rosa making a basket out of palm leaves for our food
Gura came with us to look for driftwood for his carvings. He found a piece and in his mind he saw a shark. He immediately started to carve and used first a hatchet to shape it.
Kleme found a baby dove and took it back home to care for it