DAY ELEVEN
CLUIS – LA SOUTERRAINE
It was the last day before I wanted to be in Ferme Villefavard for my creative writing
workshop. Yet I had to still walk over 35 miles, which was impossible for me.
No public transportation was running between cities. I did not know what to do.
But I was lucky. The young owner of the petite épicerie in Cluis, his name was Kam,
helped me find a ride to the next town, Crozant. He knew the people in town and
asked an unemployed person with a car who needed money. We both benefitted
from each other.
When I arrived in Crozant, I was leaving Burgundy and entered the region of
Limousin – the least populated area in France. The symbol of Limousin is a white
feather with the Letter L on it.
Symbol of Limousin
The town Crozant seemed totally empty. Only the boulangerie was open.
Boulangerie with the French flag
Crozant is known for the Painter’s school, the L’Ecole de Crozant. This place was
a paradise for the 19th century impressionistic painters who found ideal scenes
and the perfect light in the valley of the Sédelle River
The most famous painter of this school is Armand Guillaumin.
On the way down to the river, I walked through the most beautiful countryside.
The smell of an abundant blooming jasmine shrub was filling the air and prepared
me for the beauty to come.
On one side of the river, powerful granite rocks where reaching up to the sky.
Picturesque mills were on the other side. The whole valley was filled with the
gentle murmur of the water.
Valley of Sédelle
Ponte Charreau, beginning of 17th century
After leaving the valley, I walked again beside meadows and fields. Golden brown
colored Limousin cattle were watching my steps.
Limousin cattle
Like in many villages, the past showed its face. Abandoned houses still kept their
charm and former community washing places were beautiful without having purpose
anymore.
Communtiy washing place
All along the way, the foxglove was blooming in shady places beside deep green fern.
So much green everywhere! Sometimes moss was even taking over church walls.
Foxglove
Romanesque church Saint-Agnant-de-Versillat
In the evening, I arrived at the medieval town La Souterraine and stayed in the
charming hotel Jin Jaud. I was too tired for sightseeing that day.
– Text and photos contributed by Garyo –