DAY TWENTYONE
BÉNÉVENT-L’ABBEYE – BILLANGES
It was great! I did not have to look for the way as Rohan took the lead and I was
following him. No worry anymore about getting lost. Eddy was a fast walker and
always waited a bit until he could walk at his own speed. We were a great team as
we shared our love for silence, beauty and for just walking.
Eddy and Rohan looking for the Way
Our path took us up the highest peak of the Via Lemovicensis, to the 2,192 feet high
village of Saint-Goussaud. In front of the 12th century church, we met three Dutch
pilgrims on the way to Santiago de Compostela. One of them did not carry a back-
pack but pulled a two-wheeled chart behind him.
Rohan, Eddy and 3 Dutch pilgrims
Saint – Goussaud was a Roman settlement and got its name from the Roman hermit
Goussaud, who once lived in this area. He is known for his love for animals.
When we left the village, we followed an ancient Roman road down the mountain.
Trees covered with thick moss were lining up along the path like Roman soldiers.
Silence was surrounding us. It seemed that time stood still.
Roman Road
Sweet chestnut tree
Ancient stone wall covered with moss
At a charming little settlement, we took a rest and had lunch. A young lady filled my
water bottle. Her white pet rat was lovingly crawling on her shoulder and she allowed
me to take a photo of it.
When we arrived at the refuge in Billanges, Francois, the owner, was not at home.
She left the house open for us. We were told by Yves just to enter and we were
immediately surrounded by pure creativity. Everything in her house was unique –
it was unbelievable. Later on, Francois showed us her studio. She is not only
a professional porcelain painter, but also does prints, paintings and sculptures.
House of François
Inside of the house of François
In the evening, she prepared a delicious meal for us – Spaghetti a la Francois, a big
bowl of fresh salad from her garden, sweet melon and a carafe of French Red Country
Wine. Like in every refuge, we got a pilgrim’s stamp in our pilgrim’s pass.
The pilgrim’s pass is a requirement for being able to stay overnight in a refuge.
François stamping our pilgrim’s passes
– Text and Photos contributed by Garyo –