DAY FIVE
NEVERS – GROSSOUVRE
A world of dew
and within every dewdrop
a world of struggle
Issa
After crossing the Ponte de Loire in Nevers, I did not follow the traditional route
but took the route a pilgrim suggested in Le Chemin. By doing that, I had no book
to rely on and no map to verify the way. However, most of the time it was an easy
path – I just followed the Loire downstream, which connected to a canal and the
canal connected with the river l’Allier.
Canal between Loire and L’Allier
Canal with dock
In the afternoon, I arrived at the picturesque medieval village Apremont-sur-Allier.
In this village, nature and architecture were combined into pure beauty. Precisely
cut shrubs and trees became architecture in itself. An abundance of roses in all
colors, hydrangeas, lilies and other flowers were growing along the stone houses
and in the gardens. The village was not always like that. After the First World War,
a blacksmith started the renovation of one of the houses and had the vision of saving
the village from destruction. Now, Apremont-sur-Allier is a jewel of a village.
View from Apres-sur-Allier to the river
River promenade
Clematis on a house wall
The art of gardening in French garden Architecture
House in Apremont–sur–Allier
After leaving the medieval village, I hiked for two hours through the forest of
Apremont to Chateau Grossouvre, a castle from the 12th century. It was once
an important castle used by king Henry IX, Napoleon III and Catharina de Medici.
Now, the castle is closed, the interior totally run down and just the outside partially
renovated. The owners live in a simple flat roofed house nearby. I stayed in a similar
one.
Forêt d’Apremont
Chateau Grossouvre
Home of the owner of the castle
– Text and photos contributed by Garyo –