Voie de Vezelay
A pilgrimage through France
This summer, I went on a six week pilgrimage through France, one of the three major
French pilgrimage ways to Santiago de Compostela. I started in Vézelay and went to
Saint-Jean–Pied-de-Port, the popular starting point of the Camino Frances in Spain.
The whole distance was about 560 miles. The walk is also known under the name Via
Lemovicensis. I walked alone.
As part of the pilgrimage, I did a one weeklong creative writing workshop with
Natalie Goldberg. The workshop was located near La Souterraine, a town on the Voie
de Vézelay. “Closing the Gap” was the theme of the workshop. This was also the
intention of my walk – to live in the present moment, closing the gap between body
and mind. With this walk, I also closed the gap between the Camino Frances I did
with my daughter four years ago and the Via Lemovicensis, the walk from Vézelay
to St. Jean–Pied-de-Port. Like always, I took poems, haiku’s and Dharma sayings
with me. Often, I pulled one of the sayings for the day. I will include these in my
report.
The routes to Santiago de Compostela from France
I am very happy that I can share my experiences with you. Thank you very much for
walking with
DAY ONE
VÉZÉLAY – LE CHEMIN
Out breath and in breath-
know that they are proof
that the world is inexhaustible.
Ryokan
Vézelay is a medieval town in Burgundy, most famous for the Basilique Sainte-Marie-
Madelaine. Legend says that Mary Magdalene is buried there. This was the reason
why the town gained enormous importance during medieval times. The second and
third crusade started in this town.
Basilique Saint-Mari Madeleine
Choir of the Basilica with early Gothic rib vaulting
Before I started my pilgrimage walk, I visited the Romanesque church and was
intrigued by it’s great art and architecture. The celebration of the mass, done by
the Brothers and Sisters of Jerusalem, was a celebration of sitting in silence for
a long period of time. It reminded me of Zazen.
Sisters of the Order of Jerusalem. This order was founded to bring silence, peace and joy into the “desert” of modern cities.
Rue St. Ètienne in Vézelay
Vézelay is a town of roses and flowers. On a slope outside of the city wall, forest straw
berries were growing in abundance.
Forest strawberries
Wheatfield with puppies and Vézelay in the background
On my first day, I walked 16 miles or more. It was hot and I got lost several times.
I followed the symbol of the way – a yellow shell on a blue background. But
sometimes I could not find the marker or the markers were unclear.
Symbol of the trail
Getting lost on the way with no symbol in sight
The smell of the many roses in the villages, the big fields and the vast sky were my
constant companions.
Rose garden in Saint-Père-sous Vézelay
Passing the River Cure on a 18th century stone bridge
I loved the abundance of foxglove growing along the way
In the evening, I arrived in Le Chemin and stayed in the newly opened Refuge
“L’Ésprit du Chemin,” a place for pilgrims to spend the night. The warm welcome
by the Dutch couple Huberta and Arnold was fantastic.
Refuge “L’Ésprit du Chemin” with Huberta
Sharing a wonderful meal together
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Note: Again we are fortunate to have a good opportunity to walk with our member
Garyo with her beautiful photos and travelog after those of her Manaslu and
Ecuador. She is thinking of visiting Japan to walk through pilgrimage of Shikoku 88
Temples with Kukai and us. (Garyo is at the left end of the the meal table in the last photo.)