DAY THIRTYEIGHT
BEYRIES – ORTHEZ
When the bird arrives
If it arrives
Observe the most profound silence
Wait till the bird enters the cage
And when it has
Gently close the door with your brush……
Jaques Prévert
After the strange night in the huge dancing hall with me as the only person sleeping
in it, I left Les Landes and entered the region of Pyrénées –Atlantiques with Béarn as
the biggest district in it. In this area, the people speak their own language (language
d’oc). For a long time, it was forbidden to use this language; now it comes slowly
back.
The countryside became hilly and the vegetation was more Mediterranean. In the
villages, the houses were well kept and it seemed that the community life was still
intact. People were going for walks and I even met a German couple that moved to
France for their retirement. They loved the quietness of this place.
Passion Flower
Pomegranate
One of many birdcages
In the afternoon, I arrived in Orthez, a charming little town located beside the River
Gave-de Pau. Medieval houses are located on each side of the river with a 14th
century bridge connecting the two sides. I loved to walk through the city and
discover hidden treasures of medieval architecture. I also climbed up the 13th
century pentagonal tower of the former castle of the counts of Béarn. The view over
the city and the countryside was fantastic.
Le Pont Vieux, 13th century
Main Street down to the refuge
Courtyard with medieval architecture
13th century tower
The best place, however, was the refuge. It was located in a Gothic stone building.
One had to walk up stairs to a Gothic tower. From there, spiral stone stairs lead up to
the rooms of the refuge. The herb garden in the court is there for the pilgrims to use.
Hôtel de la Lune
Four other people were staying there too – a French couple and the students Luni
and Mathilda. Mathilda’s feet were badly blistered. I had everything she needed to
care for them. The French couple was at their end of the pilgrimage, coming from
Le Puy.
French couple with Luni and Mathilda
– Text and photos contributed by Garyo –