DAY TWENTYEIGHT
PÉRIGUEUX – SAINT –ASTIER
Just simply alive
Both of us, I
And the poppy
Issa
I decided to continue the Way. There was something bigger than myself, bigger than
my frustration of getting lost, bigger than the hurtful feet – it was something, which
carried me forward, some inner energy, which did not want to stop.
Leaving the refuge in rue Gambetta /Périgueux
It took me more than one hour, through sheer endless rows of houses, to get out of
the city. Strong rain and wind were with me all the morning. The rain was so heavy
that forest roads turned into little lakes and muddy paths.
Part of the Benedictine Abbey Chancelade
Forest path full of water
Sign forbidding mushroom picking
In the little town of Gravelle, I stopped for a coffee and met a young woman with the
name Maude. She was a pilgrim too. She told me that she had slept in the forest.
She looked unkempt, disorderly and was constantly smoking. I felt uncomfortable
with her. Later on, I realized my aversion and regretted not having talked with her
more. I hoped to meet her again.
River Isle with mill
When I arrived at the Château Puy-Ferrat, the sun was out again. The Chateau was
also a pilgrim’s refuge and I decided to stay overnight. Here I met Maude again.
We shared the same room and had good conversations. I was happy to not have
given in to my first impression.
15th century Château Puy-Ferrat
Front side of Château Puy-Ferrat
The Château was a fantastic place. Everything was open and free to look at – from the
cellar to the attic. Many things were original – like the 15th century roof
construction. The wall walk under the roof was totally intact. One could walk
around the entire castle.
One of the rooms of the castle
Part of the original Wall Walk
15th century roof construction
Since 1999, Pierre Marzart has owned this place and mainly rents it for weddings.
But he also provides rooms for tourists and pilgrims. The price pilgrims pay to stay
overnight is incredible cheap. He told me that the 250 acres of land he owns he gave
to his friend for use, free of charge. I was impressed by his generosity.
Pierre stamping the pilgrim’s pass
I also was impressed by the poetic chaos I found on the property of the Château.
This place was alive.
Ruin in the garden of the Château
Little clay figure in the garden of the Château
A peak into the derelict barn
A statue of Christ with burning heart amongst the chaos and debris of the derelict barn.
Dogs, cats, chicken, geese, goats and the humans, all seemed to coexist peacefully.
– Text and photos contributed by Garyo –